One simple menu addition that puts an Italian restaurant higher on the authenticity scale is in-house pasta. There are many fantastic dried pasta brands out there, in all shapes and sizes, made from ingredients from wheat flours to beans, sometimes incorporating vegetables too. However, everyone should try to make pasta from scratch at least once. Chances are, you’ll do it again once you learn just how easy it is.
Wheat pasta has just two ingredients at its base: flour and water. For some richness and flavor, egg and salt are often added. It’s important to choose a really good flour, with semolina and “00” flour usually regarded as the gold standard. Both are made from durum wheat, a hard grain with high protein and gluten—which makes it perfect for strong but tender pasta noodles.
The difference between semolina and “00” is the texture to which they are ground, with semolina being slightly coarse, and “00” being ultra-fine. While both work great, “00” flour is better suited for noodles that may sit and cook in a sauce for a longer period of time, while semolina is slightly less resilient.
Plain pasta is a perfect vehicle for delivering a variety of sauces, but can be made even better by incorporating flavors directly. Herbs, spices and ground vegetables can greatly enhance pasta. One example that can be enjoyed year-round is sweet potato gnocchi, a tender dumpling-style pasta that does not require any special equipment.
The addition of a second starch, sweet potato in this case, creates added bounce and texture, slightly sweet and perfect with a simple brown butter and sage sauce. For those with a pasta machine or mixer attachment, whole wheat spaghetti is a great base for tomato and pesto sauces, hot and cold.
In making pasta dough, there is one objective: mix everything. First-time pasta makers will be surprised to learn that with some patience, it’s impressive how little liquid is needed to create a pasta dough. Upon the first mix of ingredients, a gritty, seemingly dry mess will ensue. Rest assured: You’re on track, and with a little bit of patience you will get there!
Sweet Potato Gnocchi
Level: Easy
Servings: 8-10
2 pounds sweet potatoes, scrubbed
2 cups “00” flour, plus more as needed
1 large egg
3/4 teaspoon fine sea salt, plus more to season cooking water
Roast the sweet potatoes. Heat the oven to 400° F. Place the sweet potatoes on a baking sheet and prick a few holes in them with a fork. Bake until completely tender, 45 to 60 minutes. Cool and drain the sweet potatoes. Slice open with a knife and let cool briefly. Line a colander with a double layer of cheesecloth or paper towels and scoop the flesh into it. Squeeze or pat out as much liquid as you can. Mix together the flour and sweet potato flesh.
Add egg and salt, and mix to form a smooth disk of dough. If the mixture is too dry, add a little bit of ice water. Once dough is formed into a disk, place in the refrigerator for 30 mins to rest. Cut the disk into eight even pieces, and roll them out into a “snake” one at a time. Using a knife, cut ½ inch segments and press gently with your thumb.
Place cut gnocchi on a tray lined with parchment to rest. To cook, bring a large pot to a boil, and add gnocchi and cook for 7-8 minutes, or until gnocchi is fully cooked through.
Whole Wheat Pasta
Level: Easy
Servings: 8-10
3 large eggs
2 cups semolina
1 tablespoon olive oil
1 teaspoon salt
Using a large bowl or floured wood surface, make a mount of semolina. Hollow a space in the middle, and add eggs, salt and olive oil. Using a fork, start mixing, gently incorporating more and more flour with each turn, until all flour is combined. Switch to using hands, and begin to knead into a smooth dough. If the mixture is too dry, add a bit of ice water.
Once dough is formed into a ball, place in the refrigerator for 30 mins to rest. Roll dough out into desired shapes, or run through the pasta machine. When ready to cook, bring a large pot of water to a boil. Add pasta and cook for 5-7 minutes, or until fully cooked.
John Schinkel-Kludjian is a lifelong Fremont resident who completed his culinary education at Laney College in Oakland. He specializes in, and has a passion for French, Italian and modern American cuisines. John resides in Niles with his husband, Marty. Questions, comments? Jo****************@gm***.com
